In the heart of Australia’s vast, scorching outback lies Alice Springs, a place that, despite its geographical remoteness, basks in a surprisingly rich culture of diversity and acceptance. Often overshadowed by the tourist magnet of Uluru - the natural wonder formerly known as Ayres Rock, this town in the Northern Territory has developed a reputation as a sanctuary for the LGBTQ+ community, embodying a blend of ancient tradition and vibrant contemporary expression.
Alice Springs, historically recognized for its high proportion of lesbian couples, demonstrated its queer-friendly ethos as early as 2016. Census data from that year revealed that female same-sex couples made up approximately one in 100 of all co-habiting couples, underscoring the town's inclusive nature.
The roots of Alice Springs’ welcoming atmosphere date back to the early 1980s. A significant event was the women’s peace camp at Pine Gap, which attracted hundreds of feminist activists. Many decided to remain, captivated by the splendid landscapes and opportunities to collaborate with Indigenous communities.
Currently, Alice Springs hosts the annual fabALICE festival, a flamboyant celebration of LGBTQ+ pride that transforms this desert town into a glittering spectacle. Situated amid the strikingly beautiful Red Centre, fabALICE rivals pride events in much larger cities worldwide.
The journey into Alice Springs begins with the visceral experience of touching down amidst the iconic outback landscape, defined by its searing heat and panoramic skies. Upon arrival, visitors often opt for an aerial tour of the area with Alice Springs Helicopters to take in a breathtaking view of a sweeping vista of the ochre and green expanse, delineated by the serpentine Todd River, with local landmarks pinpointed by the female pilot, who has aspirations to become an astronaut.
Lodging at the Crowne Plaza Alice Springs Lasseters adds a cinematic touch to the visit, as it featured prominently in the film "Priscilla, Queen of the Desert."
As night descends, fabALICE begins in earnest. The Alice Springs Convention Centre becomes the epicentre of celebration, where streetlights reflect off glittering costumes as attendees converge. One of the festival’s highlights is Electric Fields, who mesmerize the crowd with their fusion of electronic and Indigenous sounds.
Australian stage and cabaret icon Rhonda Burchmore graces the stage, exuding charisma and glamour. Clad in a sequinned catsuit and towering heels, she enthralls the audience with a blend of show tunes, comedic timing, and charming dancers.
The festival also attracts renowned drag performers, including Hannah Conda and Kween Kong from "Drag Race Down Under". They deliver dazzling performances that bring the glitz and glamour of reality TV to the heart of the outback. Additionally, international stars such as Sister Sister and Ginny Lemon from "Drag Race UK", along with Joey Jay and Utica Queen, join local talents like Miss Ellaneous and Ferocia Couture, enriching the festival with a diverse range of acts.
While fabALICE showcases prominent names, the event also shines a spotlight on the local drag scene, demonstrating that Alice Springs has its own dynamic and engaging performers. These local queens deliver raw and energetic performances, captivating the audience with their authenticity.
Beyond the festival, Alice Springs offers opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the surrounding areas. The Tjoritja West MacDonnell National Park provides a serene backdrop for hiking, with its silent trails and mesmerizing watering holes, where the red cliff faces dramatically reflect on the water’s surface.
In the end, Alice Springs emerges as more than just a stopover en route to Australia’s iconic landmarks. It is a town with a unique heartbeat, where ancient and modern cultures intersect and celebrate each other. As the site of the fabulous fabALICE festival, this oasis in the outback proves itself to be a vibrant, inclusive, and dynamic heart of Australia’s Red Centre.