The Vivienne Westwood fashion house is under intensified scrutiny following the findings of an independent investigation that upheld serious allegations of homophobic bullying against its chief executive, Carlo D’Amario. The investigation, conducted by employment barrister Paul Livingston, delved into the conduct of D’Amario after a grievance was raised by a former employee in June 2023.
The allegations included accusations that D’Amario engaged in persistent verbal abuse, employing homophobic slurs, and displaying discriminatory behaviour towards staff based on their sexual orientation. Evidence collected during the investigation included testimonies from eight witnesses, confirming the use of pejorative nicknames such as “Mary Poppins,” “Mary Fairy,” and “Homo Pomo.” One witness recounted feeling deeply offended by the term “homo pomo,” which was reportedly often used by D’Amario.
Additional claims revealed that D’Amario’s derogatory comments were not limited to verbal slurs. Witnesses indicated that he expressed disapproval of display aesthetics he deemed “too gay,” leaving some employees “horrified.” When questioned about these allegations, D’Amario denied wrongdoing, stating that sexuality was “the last thing in [his] brain.” However, the investigator deemed his denials unconvincing.
Other serious comments attributed to D’Amario included disparaging remarks about gay employees, where he allegedly remarked, “All these gay men in the company … you can’t trust them.” This was compounded by instances of alleged racist remarks, one of which reportedly included, “I’m not racist, but all your clients are members of the mafia.” D’Amario denied making any such comments related to the mafia.
The controversy surrounding D’Amario came to public attention when Cora Corré [pictured/Instagram], the granddaughter of Vivienne Westwood, resigned from her role in November 2023. In her resignation, she indicated that D’Amario misused Westwood’s designs, obstructed charitable initiatives associated with the Vivienne Foundation, and had a bullying approach towards her grandmother, who passed away in 2022. Additionally, Corré claimed that Dame Vivienne Westwood had expressed dissatisfaction over D’Amario's management prior to her death and had wanted him removed from the fashion house.
The implications of these allegations have raised critical questions about the internal culture at Vivienne Westwood Ltd, particularly given the late Dame Vivienne’s legacy as a staunch advocate for LGBTQ+ rights and gender expression in the fashion world. While the brand has maintained a public commitment to embracing queer culture—evidenced by collaborations with artists like non-binary singer Sam Smith—the investigation’s findings suggest a disconnection between the company’s outward image and the realities of its leadership dynamics.
The independent report cited breaches of the company’s equality policy, with specific note that neither D’Amario nor Westwood had completed mandatory diversity training. Despite these conclusions and the serious nature of the findings, Vivienne Westwood Ltd has refrained from taking any public disciplinary measures against D’Amario, who reportedly earned close to £500,000 in 2023.
As calls for accountability and an improved workplace culture grow within the fashion industry, the future for Vivienne Westwood Ltd hangs in the balance. The company faces a critical juncture: it must decide whether to maintain its support for D’Amario or take definitive steps to align its operations with the progressive values it has long championed.
Source: Noah Wire Services